How One Word Changed Everything: My first trip to Belize
Altun Ha, Belize
How One Word Changed Everything: My first trip to Belize
It was spring of 2021, deep in the COVID era. After wearing myself out with endless weekend camping trips—dragging along my service dog, Wednesday, and my mom—it was time to venture further. I felt myself slipping from one of my highs into the low tides of depression, and I knew what I needed: a trip to plan.
Travel has always been my remedy. The thought of new places, new cultures, and something to look forward to helps me push back against the waves. While waiting in the long, winding car line at Elysian Park for my COVID shot, I began making a mental checklist of destinations. I weighed the pros and cons: vegetarian food availability, immigrant communities, UNESCO sites, museums, excursions, daily budget, and flight distance. By the time I reached the front of the line, I had decided: no more than six hours away.
That evening, I texted my best friend Richie a simple question: “If you could go anywhere in the world, where would you go?”
The next morning, I woke to a single-word response. “Belize”.
Who knew that a single text from my best friend would completely change my life? Just one word. Within 24 hours of him sending it, I had gone down the rabbit hole: researching the country, comparing different regions, choosing one of the Cayes, and booking flights and accommodations. By the time I called him, everything was set. “All that’s missing is you,” I told him. “Just cover your airfare and meet me there.”
Day 1: Landing
Impulsiveness has always been one of my strongest traits, and honestly, one of my favorites. I make decisions quickly, and once I commit, I follow through. For a traveler, that’s a gift. Sometimes you don’t have the luxury of overthinking; you need to move. But don’t get me wrong: impulsive doesn’t mean careless. I do my research, and then I jump.
Richie couldn’t make it. He couldn’t get the time off, so six weeks later, it became a solo trip. That wasn’t new for me. I’ve always been comfortable traveling alone and did it often. Plus, this was going to be my second “COVID trip.” To be fair, my first trip was back in January 2020, just before the world shut down, when I went to Denmark. But that’s a story for another day.
The focus this time was on Belize. An oddball of the Americas, tucked into Central America yet standing apart. It’s the only English-speaking country in the region. Not that Spanish would have been a problem for me (I’m fluent), but there was something comforting about knowing my mother tongue would be the default. From the start, Belize already felt different.
I ordered a few vacation looks from Shein and waited for my travel date with the excitement of a child counting down to Christmas. At the time, I was very into BJDs (Ball Jointed Dolls), so of course one came along with me—ready to be photographed in new settings and shared on my doll’s Instagram page.
My BJD Doll At LAX Before the flight to Belize
The flight from LAX was only five hours, quick enough to feel effortless but far enough to feel like I was stepping into another world. I’d done my research ahead of time: how much the cab should cost, and that it was better to buy a water taxi ticket at the office rather than online. Impulsiveness had gotten me to Belize, but research ensured I sidestepped the usual travel pitfalls. The 25USD 30-minute cab ride was a panoramic blur, carrying me from country roads into the edges of the city. I rolled the window down, letting the warm air hit my face as I took it all in. The cinderblock houses painted in bright colors, the roundabouts dotted with traffic, the smell of food cooking at roadside stands—it all wrapped around me in a way that felt so familiar. I was in Central America, but I could just as easily have been in the Caribbean. The rhythm, the pace, the scents in the air—it was terrific. It was the kind of welcome that tells you right away: you’ve arrived somewhere with its own heartbeat.
I managed to catch the second-to-last ferry to the island exactly as I planned. I didn’t want to waste any time lingering in Belize City or get stuck there. The one-hour boat ride was breezy and pleasant, a welcome transition into island life. As we zig-zagged past uninhabited Cayes, I watched the water shift from a murky green near the city to shallow, crystal-clear turquoise. Coral stretched out beneath us, interrupted only by the channel carved for water taxis. In that moment, it all made sense why cruise ships had to tender passengers into port, and why Belize’s waters are more than just beautiful. They’re alive.
Docking at Caye Caulker felt like stepping into another rhythm entirely. As soon as I came ashore, I was greeted by the crunch of sand beneath my feet and the salty breeze rolling in from the water. I dragged my carry-on suitcase along the sandy beachfront toward my hotel, laughing at how quickly I realized—this was not a “heels and pavement” kind of place. The island was small, unpolished, and full of charm.
By the time I reached my hotel, I was sticky from travel but tingling with excitement. There’s a special kind of buzz I get after a long travel day. But the transformation of a hot shower and a fresh change of clothes is genuinely transformative. It is magic, almost as if the soap and water wash away the travel exhaustion, replacing it with an energetic enthusiasm for exploration. With that renewed energy, I set out to explore this little island mystery I impulsively exiled myself to for five days.
My wandering feet on this sand path eventually led me to Sip & Dip, a laid-back bar restaurant perched on a dock that sat over turquoise water and seagrass. There, I ordered a coconut mojito. Man, it was so sweet, refreshing, and exactly what I didn’t know I needed. All my stress and troubles seemed to melt away just like the ice in my empty mojito glass did. As I sat with my second drink, I watched the sky shift colors over the Split. That is where the island is divided into two via a narrow water channel. As I looked up, the sun melted into the horizon in shades of gold, pink, and violet, reflected across the calm sea, and it seemed as if the ocean glowed for a brief second. It was the kind of sunset that makes you pause, breathe, and remember exactly why you came. My first day on Caye Caulker ended not with plans or checklists, but with the simple magic of slowing down—cocktail in hand, feet dangling off the dock, soaking in the island’s promise.
Day Two: San Pedro
On my second day in Caye Caulker, I woke up early, ready to explore. My first stop was Eylon’s House of Fry Jacks, where I had my very first fry jack. A fry jack is a Belizean breakfast classic that did not disappoint—fluffy fried dough, filled with your choice of items. I got one filled with beans and cheese. Man, was it filling. It was the perfect fuel for a day for my first off-island excursion. I was heading to San Pedro for a day trip. I managed to stop back at my hotel room in time to change into a bathing suit, grab the photocopy of my passport, my driver’s license, a towel, and the Mega Boom speaker for my adventure off the island, and then tossed them into my waterbag. I strolled over to the San Pedro Water Taxi, got tickets for the 9:45 am boat. While on the dock, I listened to the sounds of the waves crashing against the pillars underfoot. The boat arrived a few minutes after the intended time. This one was different from Ocean Ferry; the boat was bigger, and we could sit up top, which I promptly did.
The breeze on my face and the clear water sparkling below me made the short 30-minute ferry ride to San Pedro feel magical. It wasn’t far in distance, but it felt like stepping into another world. Unlike Caye Caulker, San Pedro was bustling—large buildings, busy docks, and yes, even cars!
The moment I stepped off the water taxi, I passed the line of eager vendors with laser focus and went straight to find a golf cart rental on my own. After a bit of negotiating, I scored one for BZD 80 (about USD 40) for the entire day with gas included. I showed my California driver’s license, signed a few papers, and the guy gave me a quick lesson in golf cart basics. Believe it or not, this was my very first time driving one.
Armed with my phone GPS, a portable speaker, and a playlist to set the vibe (Vybz Kartel, Sean Paul, Burna Boy, Chris Brown, Swizz Beats, and Damian Marley), I was off to Secret Beach. The road was bumpy and jostling, but instead of being annoyed, I loved every second. I blasted my music, laughed at every bump, and soaked in the views of mangroves stretching out on both sides. In that moment, I felt something shift. I’ve always been an independent traveler, but this was a new level! No tour guide, no taxi, no schedule. I was driving (okay, a golf cart, but still!) in another country, completely free to go where I wanted. It was liberating.
Even before I arrived, I knew the ride itself was worth it. The carefree smiles of others along the road, the tropical air, the adventure of it all. This was feeling like paradise. I just hoped the beach waiting at the end would be as unforgettable as the journey to get there. What on earth was I worried about! The beach was totally Zen! The water gently lapped against the sand. There were sand chairs and a few beach bars, but it wasn’t significantly developed like in Caribbean spots like Jamaica & The Bahamas. It was just perfect. The mixed rainy day clouds pulled away the moment my toes transitioned from sand to water. You couldn’t script this any better. The beach was on the west side of the island. There were no rough waves to fight with. The sand gently sloped out, and it felt like I was walking out for a long time in waist-deep water. The sand beneath my toes was soft and free of rocks. Fish swam around me curiously. Was this nirvana? I felt with each step, each dip beneath the water, each stroke, my depression was eroding, leaving behind a smooth, happy exterior. I felt joy grow from the inside. Yes. This was definitely a place worth investigating for the long term, not just a 5-day getaway.
I stayed at Secret Beach for a few hours, knowing the last ferry back to Caye Caulker was 4:30. I drove back a bit slower, soaking everything in. Almost willing it to absorb into my psyche. I stopped at a place called The Truck Stop with an hour and a half before go time. There, they had old food trucks permanently parked and food stalls boasting diverse international cuisine. I had some delicious tofu from the Asian stall, and a mojito to wash it down. I hopped back on the golf cart, located the company, parked the cart, returned the keys, and waited while they conducted the final inspection. I rushed over to the San Pedro water taxi, checked in, and joined the line of people waiting to board. I cut it close, but made it. I sat above again and watched the transition of leaving the ‘big’ island and returning to Caye Caulker.
Along the way, I stopped to secure a spot with Caveman Tours for a reef trip I’d been dreaming about for the next day. Of course, no trip to Caye Caulker is complete without a visit to the iconic Caye Caulker sign, so I posed for pictures there before making my way to the Split. The water was clear and inviting, and after a swim, I settled in at the Split Bar. The drinks were overpriced and under-poured, but the fries? Absolutely worth it. Between the sunshine, the music, and the energy of the place, it was easy to spend hours just lounging by the water. After a refreshing shower and a nap, I went out for dinner at Enjoy Restaurant Bar, which was good. I ordered the whole fried snapper with rice and beans. Crispy, flavorful, and comforting, it was the perfect end to the day. I danced at Bambooze Beach Bar and Grill for a bit, then I walked back to my hotel under the island night sky, belly full and heart even fuller, grateful for the simple joys of island life.
Day Three: Snorkeling On The Reef
The day started simply enough. I woke up, showered in my hotel room, and wandered down Front Street to find breakfast. I ended up at Amor y Café, a cozy spot not far from my hotel. A veggie omelet with toast and strong coffee was the perfect way to start what I already knew would be a big day.
Back in my room, I grabbed the essentials. My waterproof camera, phone, towel, and water bag before strolling back down Front Street toward Caveman Tours for my snorkeling adventure. I arrived early, which gave me time to chat with the crew while they ran out to pick up our lunch orders for the day.
Soon after, it was time to board. Our group was small: just myself and a family of three—a mom, dad, and son. Who told me they were originally from somewhere overseas but are now living in Canada. Including our captain and guide, we were only six people total. I couldn’t help but feel lucky. These days, most snorkeling tours pack boats with 15 or more passengers. Instead, we had an intimate group, which made the whole experience feel personal and relaxed. As the ship pulled away from the dock, the breeze on my face and turquoise waters stretching out in every direction, I knew it was going to be an unforgettable day.
Once we left the dock, the day unfolded into pure magic. Our small group made several stops at different points along the reef, each one more breathtaking than the last. At Hol Chan Marine Reserve, we received wristbands from the park ranger, and our guide then guided us into the water. Beneath my feet in the water, and I was immediately surrounded by schools of brightly colored fish darting in every direction. The coral formations were alive with texture and movement, a reminder of just how diverse and delicate this underwater world is. Here, we saw a sea turtle chewing on some sea grass. The highlight, though, was spotting a manatee with her calf. Watching the slow, almost otherworldly movements of such a massive yet gentle animal felt like witnessing a secret. It was one of those rare moments that etches itself into your memory forever.
Next was Coral Garden, where the reef stretched out like an endless maze. I swam slowly, taking it all in. Filming the vibrant patterns, the way sunlight danced through the water, and the calm silence broken only by my breathing. I was new to snorkeling, but I enjoyed the opportunity to explore this wonderful underwater world and witness the bustling activity.
Then came the thrill: Shark Ray Alley. The moment we anchored, nurse sharks and stingrays glided toward the boat, drawn by the roar of the boat engine, anticipation of food that was not coming. At first, it wasn't very safe, but once I slipped in, it became surreal. Gentle creatures moving gracefully around us, completely unbothered by our presence. We even stopped at a sunken barge, now a thriving home for marine life, its rusty frame cloaked in coral and swarming with fish.
We made a 5th stop to feed the tarpons, but I found the fish big, scary, and ugly. I wanted no parts of that. I watched as the family did, one fish going halfway up the father’s arm in a bite to get food. I made a mental note not to try this and to remember this type of fish that can jump out of the air for food and engulf a whole hand halfway up the forearm and then release. Yuck! The father wasn’t harmed, but his swimming trunks might have been soiled.
By the end of the day, after four different stops plus the tarpons, I was sun-kissed, saltwater-tired, and completely in awe. Snorkeling Belize’s reef wasn’t just a bucket-list item, it was one of the most magical experiences of my travels so far. But my day wasn’t done yet. I went against my better judgment and got my hair braided by a local woman before my shower. I loved the look, so I went back to Enjoy Restaurant for dinner. It was the perfect ending to an event-filled day.
Four: Ziplining & The Zoo
For my last full day, I booked a mainland tour with a local guide named Richard. The itinerary was packed: ziplining, visiting the Maya ruins of Altun Ha, and a stop at the Belize Zoo. (Cave tubing was on the list, but I knew that wasn’t for me.)
Our first stop was ziplining at a locally owned company called Cave Tubing Belize (BZ). It was my very first time, and I completely loved it. Soaring above the trees, gliding over the fauna and wildlife. It was both serene and exhilarating. Because of COVID, I practically had the whole course to myself, aside from a small group of two ahead of me. I made a mental note then and there: I need to do this again someday. Afterward, Richard took me to a little roadside restaurant for lunch. Simple, local, and absolutely delicious—it was one of those meals you remember long after the trip is over. I’m so mad I didn’t get the name, but I got a picture of the outside for memories.
Next was the Belize Zoo. I’m usually not a fan of zoos, but this one surprised me. The enclosures were spacious, the grounds tranquil, and the animals seemed relaxed. I snapped great shots of colorful birds, watched monkeys swinging freely through the trees, and even had a stomping contest with a tapir. The big cats lounged lazily in the shade, watching visitors with the same curiosity we had for them.
Finally, we made it to Altun Ha, one of Belize’s most famous Maya sites. Unlike many ruins, here you can still climb the ancient stone steps. If you’re good on the StairMaster, this is your place! I climbed one of the smaller towers and was rewarded with sweeping views and incredible photos. Little did I know that less than a year later, I’d be back here again—with my mom and grandma, this time wearing a white dress. But that’s a story for another day.
Richard got me back just in time to catch the last boat to Caye Caulker. What a final day! And it wasn’t even over yet as I walked back to my hotel, a guy on a bike called out to me. At first, I ignored him, but he was persistent. I finally said hello, and he grinned, telling me, “If you swing by Bambooze tonight, I’ll be there.” I laughed it off, tucked the comment away, and kept strolling. A shower was calling my name before I decided how to spend the rest of my last evening on the island.
I did go out that night. I did meet up with that guy. He showed me around the island to parts I hadn’t explored. To the seahorse nursery, and to sit out on the dock of my hotel. We stayed out late talking about life. Who knew this man would change the trajectory of my life. Austin.
Day 5: Time To Go
After spending my last evening and early morning hanging out with Austin, it was finally time to pack up and go. I showered, folded my clothes back into my carry-on, and tried to hold on to the easy pace of island life for just a little longer. Austin walked me down to the Ocean Ferry (now Caribbean Sprinter) dock, hugged me tightly, kissed me, and wished me a safe trip already willing me to return soon.
As the boat pulled away, I sat quietly, reflecting on the trip. I thought about the places I’d explored, the adventures I’d braved, the people I’d met, and the victories. Both big and small, that I had claimed for myself. There was pride there. Growth, too. Watching the turquoise waters fade back into the murky brown of Belize City’s harbor was the moment it hit me: my vacation was over. The magic of Caye Caulker and the reef was already behind me.
I grabbed a cab back to the airport ($25 USD), passed through security with only my carry-on in tow, and waited for the plane that would take me back to reality. Yet, something in me felt different. Belize had given me more than memories—it had shifted something deep inside me.
